How much money could I potentially make with a mining rig.
So I've had my eye on this antminer s9, I found one with a psu included for about £100. And I've seen some videos saying that you could make around £5 a day all the way up to £50. Is this possible? Also is it as easy to set up as some videos I've seen? Apparently all you need to do is (if it isn't already) plug in the psu wires, the ethernet, go to the site, connect your pool and wallet and... That's it. Edit: should probably mention I havent bought it yet, I was just looking around to see If it was any good. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. Also, The reason I havent, asu/MikeDeRebeljust said, "buy bitcoin and sit my ass down" Is because I personally thought that from the videos I saw, It was easier to set up, Easier to manage, And less risky. So, I guess I'll Raise a new question, What Is the most profitable and More importantly, Simple way to gain money passively through bitcoin (or other cyrptos)? (also as a side note, some people are getting mad pissed in the comments, Im a begginer. No shit. Thats why I went to this sub, so please dont be harsh lmao)
New PC, new everything, drives disappearing & malware
Hi all, Been searching for answers regarding disappearing drives but only found stuff regarding potentially failing older drives. My computer and all components are new save one SSD and I assembled it in June. Components: Ryzen 3700x Vengeance 32GB 3200MHz Gigabyte 2070s MSI B450 Gaming carbon Corsair 750w modular PSU All high end Corsair braided cables Now the drives: Samsung Evo 860 500gb C: Samsung Evo 860 500gb D: (photos - lightroom) Samsung Evo 850 250gb E: (games) Toshiba 1tb F: (storage) Only the D: and E: drives periodically disappear. It's I'd say about 10-20% of the time after turning the computer on. Restarting usually makes em come back. All drives have good health according to Magician and are healthy according to Dskmgmt. The 850 comes from a previous computer but was thoroughly wiped (formatted, volumes and partitions deleted in Dskmgmt then reformatted again). Magician says 6.5tb were written on it. It was on a laptop and with not much file movement on it save for .docs .pdfs and the likes. Now comes the malware part, though I have no idea if it is connected. Back in July I realised the PC was infected with malwares since I couldn't access Windows defender (only had the blank 'security at a glance screen, and defender had indeed been disabled from the reg). I'd been a greedy bastard and might have gone on unsafe websites. Installed malware bytes, which found a bunch of malware including the one responsible for the defender registry debacle. It found other bitcoin mining stuff too. It apparently took care of it, however, since the computer was new, I did a full windows reinstall without keeping files. I set the few important files aside on a drive and scanned everything beforehand. Everything was fine, fast forward about 3 weeks ago when I tried launching a game and steam tells me I have to download it again. The game drive was gone. I restarted and everything was back to normal. After a while I thought 'eh, let's have ole Defender scan this mess' and bam! No defender, blank 'security at a glance' screen... Back with MWB, more or less same results as before with defender registry hack, bitcoin mining stuff and all. Thing is, I had been much more careful and hadn't downloaded anything, so this seems even weirder for me. I did another fresh windows install two days ago, not saving files (except storing the heavy steam library after full scan), thinking I'd be safe again and could finally enjoy a clean and proper PC. However, this morning, as I tried launching a game, I realised both the game drive and photo drive are gone. Restarted and it's fine, but damn is it annoying. TL;DR: drives disappear randomly it appears, but 2 malwares infestations makes me doubt everything. Everything's brand spanking new though one drive is slightly older but in good health! High quality cables. Thanks for any input and for reading that damn mess. Cheers!
Does anyone know if EVGA repairs its PSU's for folks (at a fee), or if there is any place in Canada or the US that does a professional repair? I have two EVGA Supernova NEX1500 Classified PSU's that still work great but they were used to power some bitcoin miners in their life, the cables got hot and melted some of the connection ports on the PSU. I am also looking to see where I can get a set of cables for it so I can start using them for normal purposes. As the original owner who sold them to me lost them. lol Thanks,
ILPT: Make $1/day by using somones electricity to mine cryptocurrency with a cheap (10$-50$) no longer profitable ASIC miner. The person whose electricity you are using has to pay 2$/day for the electricity bill.
Note: The profits may vary on the power of the cryptominer and the price of the cryptocurrency. The numbers in this post are illustrative. Step #1 Buy an old ASIC miner You can buy some old ASIC cryptocurrency miners for around 10$-50$ off ebay (search for brands like Bitmain or Innosilicon). You also need a PSU for it. The reason they are so cheap is that they are no longer profitable and make less money than it costs to pay for the electricity bill. A few years old Bitcoin miner can make around 1$/day, but it costs like 2$/day for the electricity bill. So you actually make a profit of -1$/day when you factor in the electricity bill. You can Google “asic miner value calculator” and you can find websites where you can calculate the profit of the ASIC miner you want to buy. Step #2 Connect the ASIC miner to someones electricity grid (Note: This is not a detailed tutorial on how to setup a cryptominer but you can find many tutorials on YouTube) Find a place where you can get free electricity and that is not regularly checked. The cryptominer can make a lot of noise (40-80dB), so find a place where it does not disturb people so they are not going look for the source of the noise. A good place for that would be someones basement or a server room at your workplace (if the sysadmins are lazy and don’t lock it) because the miner also needs an internet connect. (You could also have your own small 4G Wi-Fi router). You can even print a small label on it saying “Do not disconnect!”. You can hide it under some stuff but make sure the fans are not covered. (You do not want to start a fire.) Step #3 Profit! You will now make around $1/day and will quickly make back the money you bought the miner for. But the person whose electricity you are using will be paying an extra 60$ for their electricity each month. I’m sure there are a lot of teenagers who abuse their (grand)parents electricity in order to make some money with cryptomining.
How do I clean off blood and cocaine from a gtx 1080?
I got it at a police auction they pulled from a bitcoin miner while clearing out a trap house. Got it for only 100 dollars for my console killer. It was the final part I needed after buying a used cpu, used harddrive, and generic PSU from 完全真实的计算机零件和阴茎增强药.com for 150 usd total, and dumpster diving for my case and motherboard. After I clean it up I'm gonna show those console peasants what a real gaming machine can do😎
Hi everyone, fairly new to the topic and issues that come with it. I plan on buying a gamemax bitcoin mining 1650W power supply, and 2x 1660 super. I wanted to use my personal computer for the job, because it has a z370 pro4 mobo, and because i dont use it much really, because im a student in another city.
Can i wire the power supply only to the gpus and not to the pc? Do i need to short a cable or something to start the psu?
Is there any problem that may arise if im using my personal computer? I'll probably get risers and put the gpus out of the pc case for now. Is there any recommendation for maximum lenght of the pci riser cable? I will buy a seperate motherboard when i mine it and slowly expand my rig.
Are there brands i should avoid buying? Zotac? Gigabyte? Also is there any info somewhere about the memory brand of the gpu? Samsung seems the best.
Can i run different gpus at the same time? 2x 1660 & 1x 1060 in my case.
Hi people, I have a computer that I built a few years back and would like to get rid of. This computer has never been used to play any games, mine bitcoin, etc. My brother used it as an office PC. Okay so here is the full part list, along with what I could find each part for at the cheapest... CPU: i9-7920X Skylake 2.9GHz 12-core - $600 GPU: GTX 1080TI (ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-011G-GAMING) - $600 Motherboard: ASUS TUF X299 Mark 1 - $350 Memory: Vengeance LPX 4x16GB 2666MHz DDR4 RAM - $220 Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2 - $200 AIO: Thermaltake FLOE RIING - $160 WiFi: Asus PCE-AC558T - $35 Case: CORSAIR CRYSTAL 570X RGB ATX CASE - $150 PSU: EVGA 850 G3 - $140 OS: W10 Pro I'm asking for the combination of all these prices, and sell the whole computer as one (I don't want to part out right now). So $2455 for the rig. I'm not going to add in the cost of windows. If my prices are nuts please let me know. Your sweet proof I don't have a CPU-Z because I didn't know that was a requirement before I reset windows. I hope the UEFI picture makes up for it.
Coil Whine - Unique Situation and What I've Learned and my Desparate Need for Help.
Specs listed at the bottom before you pull your hair out and throw your chair out the window. So for the past 2 months I have been digging all over the internet and troubleshooting this problem in every way I can conceive and I have been through quite the journey to get where I am now, only to find that I may literally be the only one suffering from my unique problem. I am going to be somewhat detailed so that anyone else suffering from this might find this post and learn something (if we find a solution). I will try to keep it concise, but I need you all to know what I have and have not tried so that we don't waste everyone's time. I have an audio buzz. This buzz comes primarily from analogue ins/outs on my PC's hardware. USB audio ins/outs have this as well, but not nearly as bad. I have a USB mixer that I thought was the culprit, because as I was setting up the audio system for streaming it became apparent. I initially discovered ground loops and tried to mitigate the problem by eliminating that. No dice. I systematically eliminated every single ground from the system and removed components to no avail. It would literally be impossible for me to have a ground loop with my current setup - I really dialed that in before I moved inside the PC. Yes I have even plugged the entire system (AS A TEMPORARY - LITERALLY 30 SECOND TEST) into the outlet with no ground prong (bring on the hate) to eliminate that possibility. The main problem that I have is due to the fact that I have to monitor "listen to this device" one input or another with the way my audio works. I need on the fly control of multiple audio streams at my mixer, so I have audio running from windows into my mixer and back out at 2 points. If I want to hear anything from one of them I MUST monitor it within windows. Monitoring the USB audio source does make things significantly more quiet than monitoring the analogue line in, so I am setup this way and things are better than they could be - but still not nearly acceptable. Spoiler: it is due to coil whine which apparently to every single other person in the world is literally a zero issue because they can hide their PC below their desk, keep the culprit component enclosed in the case or use good headphones and not have to listen to the "hardware coil whine." Nobody hears their coil whine through their audio output. If they do - they've been searching for solutions to:
Windows audio buzz/buzzing
Realtek audio buzz
HD Audio Buzz
Buzz through headphones
Buzz through speakers
Etc, you get the idea.
These people that are searching this DO get the help they need. They simply disable a culprit unused audio source, disable monitoring "listen to this device" on an audio source, or reduce microphone boost or lower input/output levels. Some even have success disabling or enabling drivers (but I think this is not the ACTUAL solution - I notice that when I disable, uninstall or update devices/drivers, settings roll back too and any device I was monitoring is no longer monitored (or is monitored by the wrong audio output). My theory is that drivers have nothing to do with this problem - any apparent fix or genesis of the problem due to Windows Update or Drivers are actually just settings being defaulted or change by the audio system resetting. I have also tried USB isolation and dedicated sound cards (which just pass the problem along). The problem is exactly the same no matter what because again - this is due to coil whine and it is at the hardware level at its core. I discovered that it was coil whine after thinking I had discovered it was not coil whine. After all - removing my GPU from the equation didn't stop the sound from persisting in my headphones and a CPU can't coil whine (I don't think)... Anyways, I happen to think I have found a workaround last night. Yeah, sure - the buzz is still there but I am pretty sure it is not coming into my stream. Wrong. I load up a game (and I have my case side panel off) and before I can get into my headphones to check if the noise is back I notice it coming from inside my PC's case. Quick throw-on of the headphones and a quick diagnostic tells me that indeed I am hearing the same noise inside the case and through my headphones. As mentioned before - the USB monitoring has lessened the problem, but not eliminated it. So I have a big "HELL YEAH" moment. The problem is still there - but I know it is SOMEWHERE in this chunk of hardware I am looking at in front of me, and I can assume it is either the PSU, the Motherboard or the GPU. So I take to doing some testing. In my months of research I found that when the computer is "drawing" as in pixels are generating new information, the problem is worse. I also know that loading my CPU to 100% significantly reduces the noise it is making and again I know these things can be related to changes in voltage at the CPU/GPU. So I get a game loaded and go to work. Unplug Display Port - nothing changes significantly, but there is a small change nonetheless. But the monitor literally isn't drawing anything. The CPU is still relaying information (mouse position, the Game, etc). So either way the GPU is still receiving information, just not passing it on to the monitor. Pull the 8 pin off the GPU - Fan cranks to 650% and I couldn't hear anything if I tried. So no dice there but I remember trying this before and not noticing much of a change either. So now I open performance monitor, a web page with plenty of white on it (seems to generate the most noise) and start scrolling around. I notice that I get spikes on the GPU AND THE CPU when scrolling, and the noise in the headphones and at the hardware level is consistent with the movement and the readouts in Performance Monitor. I run Cinebench r20, the CPU shuts the F**k up for the most part, but mostly because it is a high frequency now and most of it is out of normal hearing range (I have a wider hearing range due to ear training) and can pick up the low end of it (18-19khz) and think that if only this was all I had to deal with that would be great. However, I am still getting quick spikes (during r20 test) when I move the mouse to highlight different tables on the performance monitor - so the GPU is also in on it. Speaking of trying to isolate hardware problems: I have tried isolating the noise in the case using a straw and a notebook to block the sound and really can't determine if it is GPU, CPU, or some component on the motherboard or all three - I know it is not coming from the PSU because that is easy enough to isolate in my case (pun not intended - but enjoyed). However, just because the PSU does not whine doesn't mean it isn't the culprit - if it is delivering unstable power to a component then it sure could be (correct me if I am wrong). So here I am - wondering if you all have any valuable input. Please consider that I have read (no exaggeration) 200+ unique pages on this topic (broad as it was in the beginning) and I have tried everything suggested BESIDES replacing CPU, replacing, GPU, replacing MOBO, replacing PSU. And that is why I am here asking for your advice. I need to probably replace components and I have to start somewhere - I cannot RMA anything besides the GPU (lost all proofs of purchase - paid cash for some items at retailers and lost paperwork when moving). And MSI will not RMA motherboards for Coil Whine anyway (according to numerous posts). I am prepared to buy a new MOBO and PSU, but I wonder where you think I should start. Nvidia is looking into RMA'ing the card for me but they're hesitant. I just want to list some other random things I have tried with no success so that you don't waste your time having to ask.
Everything main power related (grounding, loops, power conditioning, etc.)
Modified power plan settings
Disable C-states in BIOS
Remove all overclocks (GPU/CPU/RAM)
Test with different speakers/headphones/combinations of onboard, sound card, audio ins/outs.
Might as well have tested a USB/external sound card considering my mixer is USB and the USB audio out still has a problem (when being monitored)
Cleared cache/reinstalled NUMEROUS programs
Adjusted monitoring levels (this definitely lessens the buzz but it just comes out again when I increase the gain on a later part of the audio chain to make up for the loss in useful audio signal)
Moving case/attempting to ground it and the motherboard better
Shuffled wires/cables around to keep things out of contact or from running parallel to each other
Tried all USB ports and front/rear analogue ports
Probably several other things - I am getting very exhausted working on this all the time.
Limiting frame rate in Nvidia Control Panel and Profile Inspector
Please let me know if you have any input or are suffering the same problem. I would really appreciate it and hopefully someone suffering a problem can find this post and learn something about their own situation from all the processing I have done. Specs:
Thermaltake H22 Mid Tower
MSI B350M Gaming Pro
AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Cooler Master Air Cooler
EVGA DDR4 3200Mhz 16Gb (2x16) Running in dual channel
Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060 Super Founders Edition 900-1G160-2565-000
2x Mechanical HDD (1 Toshiba, 1 "something else") 1x1TB, 1x2TB Both SATA
1x Samsung Evo m.2 SSD 500GB (boot, some games)
PowerSpec 550w 80+ Bronze non-modular
Windows 10 x64 Pro N Version 1903 Build 18362.1016
Mackie PROFX12v3 USB mixer
LiveWire power conditionesurge protector
Acer 27" XF 1080p 144hz/1ms monitor (connected via DP)
Sabrent powered USB hub
Audio Technica m50x
Logitech G502/G910 Mouse/Key respectively
Broken office chair and a broken spirit... please help me.
Thanks in advance. Update: In case this gets read by more than 3 people. Changed MOBO and PSU (independently and together - as separate tests) and nothing has changed.
Hey y'all! So I've been having a bit of an issue with my PC. Throughout windows it seems as though there isn't any anti-aliasing happening. The lines look jagged and sometimes I get these texture waves/shimmer. I've tried so many things. -reinstalling drivers -messing with nvidia control panel -replaced displayport cables/switch to HDMI -messing with monitor settings (2x VG27AQ) -reinstalled windows 10 pro -reseated the graphics card -display settings in windows I had a bitcoin mining virus that I dealt with and removed with malwarebytes. I also had a instance where I case swapped my pc and when removing the graphics card the plastic pcie clip that locks the card came off with it. I was able to put it back on as well as reseating the card with out it and it made no difference. So I'm a bit at a loss. The aliasing is especially noticeable when viewing HD/4K videos in a small windows instead of in full screen. Games seem to be running fine and anti-aliasing works on Warzone for example. Overall the Windows UI seems jagged and not as sharp as I remember. Here's a screenshot: https://imgur.com/a/vEqiaOV Full Specs: Ryzen 9 3900x EVGA 2080Ti FTW3 Ultra 32GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200mhz 750W Corsair PSU Samsung Evo Plus 970 1TB Infinnet DP Cables 2x VG27AQ 165hz monitors
Ryzen 1600x high idle temp because 3 cores are at full load
My airflow and the cpu cooler in general are pretty good, the cpu is overclocked to 4ghz and under full cinebench r20 load it doesnt even reach 70C but at idle my cpu will sit around 56C, after opening hwinfo or hwmonitor the temp checks out (Tdie) and it shows that thread 0,2 and 6 are at full 100% load. What could be causing this. Task manager doesnt show anything unordinary going on and the usage is <5% Computer Type: Custom dekstop GPU: Gainward Ghost RTX 2060 6GB CPU: 1600X 4.0GHz 1.35V Motherboard: ASRock AB350M RAM: Patriot Viper Steel 3400MHz 2x8GB 2nd and 4th slot. XMP set to 3200MHz PSU: Corsair CX650M Operating System & Version: Windows 10 Pro Version 2004 GPU Drivers: 452.06 Chipset Drivers: P5.50 Background Applications: Spotify, MSI Afterburner, Riva Statistic Tuner, NVIDIA Settings Troubleshooting: Tried removing the cpu overclock SOLVED: Trojan bitcoin miner deep in chrome folder
Anything in my current, fairly old (but water-cooled!), PC worth using in a new one?
I started building computers around the year 2000 and have never really done a complete build from scratch (for myself) after my first. I'd upgrade a part here and there, and over time everything has been replaced multiple times. However, I'm thinking, due to an upgrade hiatus (it took me a LONG time to "beat" Skyrim :-P), I'm at the end of the road. I'm close to the conclusion that, for the second time in my life, it makes sense for a fresh new build. I figure I'd run this past y'all first. My next computer I'll use for both fun and work. On the fun side, it would ideally play modern games (Particularly, I'm eying Elder Scrolls VI and Baldurs Gate III) on decent settings on my 34" widescreen monitor. Work-wise, it needs to be able to run multiple docker containers and let me do other things (take notes in notion, google docs, etc.) while on a CPU-crushing video call. The budget is $1,500. Here is my current setup and thoughts on each component: Photos:https://imgur.com/a/xyM07dx Things that may be useful: Operating System: Windows 10 Professional (from upgrading from Windows 7... the DVD is hopefully somewhere) PSU: Corsair TX850W - It has been trusty for the last eight years, but may not have the needed connectors for today's stuff. Hard Drive:Crucial MX100 512 GB SATA SSD - 2.5-Inch, No performance complaints (specs claim 6.0 Gb/s), although I'm running out of storage space. Optical Drive: Pioneer DVD-RW - Do people still put these in new computers? I also have an external USB DVD drive I could use in a pinch. Case:Chieftec Dragon Mid Tower - this old case is steel and heavy as shit, which is actually nice as my dogs and toddlers are unlikely to knock it over inadvertently. It has a window which I like, although cable management is a massive pain in the ass. I'm not too fond of the door that covers the buttons and optical drive and lost it long ago. Cooling:Custom water cooling setup - I water-cooled in 2002, overclocking my Athlon XP 1700+ from 1.4Ghz to 2.5. It was awesome. The radiator and T-valve are the original gangsters. I'm on my fifth pump, with my last three being the Swiftech MCP655-B, which I like. The current water block is some D-Tek for the old CPU socket. The radiator is an old Chevy Impala radiator (I think) that this guy I met on a 3DMark (now Futuremark) forum (jb2cool?) custom modified and made a shroud that houses two 120mm fans. I had to drill the shit out of my case to mount this thing in there. I'm very nostalgic about this setup, but it would also be a huge pain to fit into a new case. Monitor:LG 34UM67-P 34 - 34" IPS widescreen; 5ms 2560 x 1080 60hz; is 60hz too slow these days? Keyboard and mouse: Logitech Chordless Wave - USB dongle; wrists feel ok, no complaints Things that probably will not be useful: Motherboard:Gigabyte P45T-ES3G - I'm pretty sure I won't be reusing this. I also bought it to replace a more bad-ass motherboard that died when my previous power supply died and took it out with it. I do like how it had dual bios, though. CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 - Been impressed with this CPU lasting as long as it has. I wet sanded it down to a mirror finish ready to overclock the shit out of it, but then never got to it as life got in the way. Memory: 4x4GB PC3-12800 DDR3 - G.Skill Ripjaws; ancient technology. Note: I want more than 16GB ram in my next build. GPU:Asus Geforce GTX 460 - My previous GTX 460 died at the height of bitcoin, and any modern GPU was stupidly expensive. Replacing mine was only $30 on eBay, so that's the route I went. tl;dr: are any of the above bolded components still worthwhile in a modern PC build?
NAXN 650w PSU, non-modular. (Cable management with it is a nightmare.)
2 x 8GB DDR4-3200 Sport Balistix
Galax GTX 1070 (2nd-hand too! Bought it from someone who used it for bitcoin mining.)
AverMedia Live Gamer HD 2 PCI-E Capture Card (Outer shell removed. Can you guess why?)
Fans (2 x SickleFlow 120mm RGB included with AIO, 1 x Silent Wings 3 140mm, 2 x Silent Wings 3 120mm)
IPS 1366 x 768 LCD screen, salvaged from my father's old laptop. Secondary monitor inside my case. ;-) Extra parts ordered from AliExpress: Controller board, acrylic case to house controller board, Molex-to-2.5mm Jacket plug, 19cm HDMI ribbon cable.
Last but not least, first-time installation of LED stripping to the case interior.
What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.
I want to play Warzone and (soon) Cyberpunk 2077 on the best possible settings, with the ability to stream on Twitch.
What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?
Ideally, I want to be between $2000-$2500, but am financially willing to go up to $3000.
When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.
I am in no rush to buy the PC this week or this month. If I should wait for new processors and video cards that will be released in the fall, then I'll do that.
What, exactly, do you need included in the budget?
The best parts to support the highest video settings on a 4K monitor. CPU, CPU cooler, Mobo, GPU, PSU, Hard Drive, Case, Windows OS, additional USB ports, all that stuff
Pretty much everything but a mouse and keyboard.
Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?
US - no MicroCenter location near me
If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.
Just the mouse and keyboard
Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?
I have no desire to overclock
Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)
I definitely want at least a 1 TB SSD drive (ideally 2 TB's), but the other words are things I don't know about so I have no clue. Whatever will help me have the best gaming/streaming performance for my budget.
For $3000, I just want the best possible gaming & streaming setup I can get. I don't do video editing, or Bitcoin mining, or any of that. I want to play and stream games, stream videos, and browse the Internet with it.
What type of network connectivity do you need? (Wired and/or WiFi) If WiFi is needed and you would like to find the fastest match for your wireless router, please list any specifics.
I have a powerline adapter connection, so I'll need an Ethernet port
Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?
I want LED lighting, ideally blue and red
Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?
Yes, just a basic Win10
Extra info or particulars:
I want this PC to be built for me. I've built my own PC a few years ago and it took way longer than expected and received faulty hardware, so I will gladly pay extra to have someone else do it for me. Just the cable management alone is something I'm willing to pay an extra few Benjamin's for. For the aesthetic, I would like the case to be see-through with LED lights inside, with a white case.
[FS] [US-TX] Downsizing my lab, Dell PowerEdge R610's, MD3000, and Equallogic Array... plus more! [Local Pickup Only]
I am in the process of downsizing my lab/house, and have a few items for sale/free to a good home. All prices are in $USD, and no shipping requests please. Local pickup only, as most of this is too expensive to ship.
I have a 3.6 kw solar array with 11.4 kw li-ion battery bank. I have on average an addition 6kw per day that I could use to mine btc. I am planning to use a s9se at 129v with 2 psu’s connected in parallel. I’ll scale the solar later. My problem is that I’ve never mined bitcoin and I’m truly off grid and get my internet via LTE. My plan is to use the usb-c port on my lte surface pro X and plug that directly into the ant miner with an Ethernet adapter. Will this work this way without a router? If not what are my options. Data line is not available. Both my phone and my laptop have unlimited data plan with hotspot. I’m open to purchasing additional pieces of equipment if needed.
19 GPU Build with ASUS B250 Mining Expert - 470MH/s
Its my dream to achieve and build a mining rig of this extent. Allow me to describe this journey of mine to the GPU mining community. Kudos to all! Feel free to ask me questions and I would love to help you out.
2017 - Bull Market - Dipped my toes into the GPU mining market. Spent nearly 3k USD, 6x GTX 1060 3GB & 2x GTX 1070ti.
I exited this market back at the very end of the bull run and never touched Bitcoin until 2019. I began to plan my future, created an investment portfolio where I finally included Bitcoin back into my high risk asset class. The resurgence of Bitcoin mining begans :)
2019 - Sold my Ryzen 7 1700 & MB for ASUS B250 Mining Expert with 19 GPU build in mind
Hi all Just finished what is technically my third unRaid build, and am so far very happy with how it turned out. My goal was to reduce noise, heat, and if im lucky electricity useage Been running an R620, first on ESXi for 4 years, then unRaid for the last two months. Since i've been working from home the last 4 months both the heat and the noise from that 1U chassis was getting unbareable. Even with manual fan control through IPMI and scripting auto-fan control it wasn't quiet enough whilst maintaining a reasonable temperature for the office (55-65C on idle. Exhaust temps between 75-80C idle). So a few days ago I liquidated some Bitcoin and Ethereum and built a new server! I'd already taken out one of the 2 CPU's from the R620 to make sure my workload was capable of running on 6C/12T @ 2.3GHz (I think) so I settled on the following: Ryzen 5 2600XAsus TUF B450M-Plus16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4bequiet Pure Power 11 400W psu1X 4TB WD Blue (shucked from an old MyBook) - Parity2x 2TB WD Purples (free from my dad) - Data1x 2TB Seagate BarraCuda - Data1x 100gb old Dell SSD - Cache (already had it... currently sat in the pool failing)1x 100gb old Intel SSD - Cache (already had it. In the pool incase the Dell dies) All wrapped up in a Fractal Define R6. Originally bought a bequiet Pure Base 500 accidentally thinking it could do more 3.5" drives than it could. Went with the Define as I like the look and I already have one with no mechanical drives so I have spare caddies. Also accidentally bought the USB-C version... so swapped that out quickly with my main rig! Ran out of SATA power from the PSU so currently waiting on a Molex-SATA power adapter so I can plug the front fan controller back in after adding the second WD Purple earlier today. It's currently sitting between 30-40C idle, and is quieter than my gaming PC at idle. So mission successful for the most part I guess!
I'm not sure what my instability issues are, motherboard, or nvme drive, or cpu maybe? Hard-lockups, blue screens, exacerbated by drive writing.
System Specs: 32gb DDR4 3200mhz AMD Ryzen 5 3600 ADATA 1tb NVME drive. 750 watt EVGA Bronze PSU NVidia 970 GTX (which also crashes, but that's not the issue here - it was an old bitcoin GPU a friend sold me on the cheap, was the only thing I could afford) MSI Gaming Plus x570 Motherboard Stock cooling (air) Windows 10 2019 LTSC I've actually already replaced the ADATA NVME drive once -- a couple of months back it just up and died completely. Upon replacing it, things were stable for a while (a while being...about a month and a half), but I'm getting random lockups now, and issues that seem to point to the ADATA NVME drive, or...maybe the motherboard? I've already RMAd the NVME drive once...I'm afraid I'm SOL on doing it a second time. It's not a Gen4 drive, according to CrystalDiskInfo, it's running at PCI-E 3.0x4 lanes. S.M.A.R.T. isn't reporting anything erroneous. CrystalDiskMark reports about 2k MB/s sequential reads @ 1MiB (top test), and ~800MB/s write when I benchmark it. Really the problem reared its ugly head as I was doing an update to a game yesterday evening. It was a 3gb update, followed with an "optimization" which basically reads and then rewrites the game files sequentially on the disk. This is basically 30gb worth of rewriting, and it really brought out the machine locking up while it was doing its thing. As I watched on my task manager, the drive went from 20MB/s writes, down to 8MB/s, down to 1MB/s, up until the machine essentially stopped responding. The NVME drive was warm, but I bought a really beefy heatsink for this thing after the first one died; taking insane care putting it together and making sure this one was pampered. Randomly I'll come home these past few weeks with Windows 10 on a screen saying it couldn't repair the boot device, or that a boot device wasn't found, and I've even gotten a "NON_PAGED_POOL" error once which made me think I had a RAM issue. I've thrown memtest on a USB stick and ran it over night with nothing to show for it. So at the very least I'm pretty sure my RAM is fine. After last night, lockup after lockup, I moved the NVME drive down from the top slot above the GPU (it...gets a little toasty there, but not uncomfortably so.) down to the slot below it. So far, in 24hrs, I haven't gotten any random crash - but that may just be luck. I've had strings of a day or two where nothing happened. My problem is - I don't know what I should be distrustful of at this point. The NVME drive that died was in the top slot of this motherboard. I seem to maybe, have possibly resolved it by putting it in the bottom slot...should I RMA the motherboard? The drive? I've heard something about the top NVME slot being connected directly to the CPU and the bottom one having to go through a PCI-E controller instead or something? -- I don't know details on that exactly, but could the CPU be the issue with the top nvme slot? So now I'm kinda freaking out, wondering if I've gotta rebuild this stupid thing with an RMA'd mobo, or if the motherboard is even the culprit at all anyhow. Fans are all max, running them balls-out because I thought it could be a heat issue at some point. At this point, I'm kind of at a loss and I'm becoming really disappointed in this new machine I built for myself - it's unstable, it's also the local minecraft server for my kids, and it keeps causing me issues. Edit: Has the latest bios. I updated that when it came out. No overclocking going on with the board at all; I bought the x570 for future expansion in mind... also sorry about my writing - I have gray-matter memory issues and sometimes I'll repeat myself or make a sentence read weird. Ask for any clarification and you'll get it.
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